Anonim

CLUB OF CAR FANS

RELIABILITY

FROM THE LIFE OF “NEXIA”

Nexia is one of the most popular foreign cars in Russia, but, like every car, it has its own "signature" weaknesses.

Arkady Kozlov

Wanting to collect as complete and objective information as possible about the “diseases” of Nexia, we turned to the specialists of one of the branded service stations of Daewoo in Yekaterinburg. For two and a half years they have been visited by more than 5 thousand cars. Mostly collected in Uzbekistan and Rostov-on-Don. There are very few Korean. Nevertheless, they hardly differ in build quality - on the whole it is not bad, although some malfunctions can be said to be “put on the conveyor”.

The greatest number of surprises presents steering. Almost every third (!) Car that has visited this service station, the steering shaft touches the steering column (shaft mounting pipe). Many owners, having heard an alarming rattle, try to fix the malfunction themselves. Looking under the steering wheel, they find a split sleeve on the shaft. For some reason, having decided that she de jumped out of the column, they try to shove it into place. Clamps, electrical tape and other improvised materials are used that are carefully wound on the shaft. There will be no sense from such repairs. The reason for the grinding is the careless adjustment of the shaft during installation.

To eliminate the malfunction, you will have to work with a chisel (yes, a real chisel - in a foreign car!). The fact is that according to the factory technology, one head of the steering shaft mounting screw breaks off the head after tightening. Without a chisel, do not turn it away. After loosening the shaft mount, it is centered using the same split sleeve (it is needed only for this) and a new screw is tightened. The sleeve is installed in its original place. After careful adjustment, the reappearance of the defect is unlikely.

Steering column surprises don't end there. Often (almost every tenth car) the steering shaft bearing knocks. The double row bearing itself is generally operational. The reason for the knock is a weak fit of the inner ring. To eliminate the malfunction on the removed steering shaft under the bearing, knurling is performed by a corrugated roller on a lathe. So, in any case, do the specialists of the Daewoo repair station, to which we refer. Their experience indicates that the bearing is loose (and can be easily removed) on almost all vehicles, even those where it does not make noise. But it’s important not to overdo it with knurling, otherwise you can’t do without a hammer when pressing in, and then the bearing will not be damaged for long.

Less often there are knocks in the telescopic articulation of the steering column. Their reason is the same - increased gaps. Treatment - as in the previous case: a gentle knurling on the mating parts.

After a run of 30-40 thousand km, steering tips can knock. Such is their resource on Russian roads. Well-proven tips from Korea with the inscription Lemon. Unlike the “branded” ones, with a spring-loaded (like on the “Volga”) finger, Lemon has a rigid structure. Perhaps this is what positively affects their longevity. By the way, owners often ask to replace the "rattled" steering rack. And it almost always turns out that the culprit of annoying noise is the tip. The rail itself is quite reliable, it rarely needs repair or replacement.

SHRUS "Nexia" is very durable. They can regularly serve 200 thousand km or more (such facts are known), if you follow their covers (anthers). Inexperienced motorists often confuse the boot of the Nexia and Niva. Indeed, they are very similar and even sit quite well during installation. However, someone else's boot when riding will certainly get off!

Quite often, the rear springs break. The reasons for this are uneven roads and the “appetites” of other owners who are ready to stuff as many as six bags of potatoes into the voluminous trunk.

Otherwise, the suspension of the car is not satisfactory. As a replacement for failed struts and shock absorbers, you can advise the Japanese Kayaba 36025 (front) and 343047 (rear). The kit is relatively inexpensive (about $ 230) and very practical. With them, Nexia will become tougher, but it’s harder to break through.

Troubles in the brake system of a car arise when the owners, trying to "save", are in no hurry to change the brake fluid. As a result, the cylinders are jammed. Naturally, when the parts are “stuck”, there is no need to wait for “tenacity” from the brakes. Regular (after 20–25 thousand km) brake fluid replacement (DOT-3 or DOT-4) helps to avoid corrosion. The figure indicated in the instructions of 30 thousand km is clearly overestimated (perhaps it was calculated for a milder, temperate climate).

The engine, with proper care, can go without overhaul 200 thousand km or more, if not save on oil and filters. The valve compensators installed on Nexia are very sensitive to oil quality. Clogged with mud, deposits, they quickly lose their working capacity. The result is a failure of the camshaft, rockers.

Repair specialists say: the best candles for Nexia are Korean RN9YC. They provide reliable start-up in the winter. Others, even matching the catalog, are sometimes let down in frost. Change candles preferably every 20 thousand km.

Caps of candle wires sometimes stick to the candles so much that an inexperienced master will surely break the wire, trying to pull them off. It is better to spend a few extra minutes to carefully swing the caps first. In any case, a spare set of wires does not hurt.

Nexia is not equipped with either a catalyst or a lambda probe, so it is believed that it “digests” leaded gasoline without any problems. However, saving on fuel in this case is unprofitable. Leaded gasoline forms deposits on the finest grids of nozzles and eventually disables them. Cleaning nozzles does not always bring the desired result - sometimes deposits accumulate so much that it is completely impossible to wash them off. The optimal setting is the engine setting for the "95th" gasoline. The reduction in fuel consumption in this embodiment somewhat compensates for the difference in price.

The gasoline pump most often fails, taking in air when driving with an almost “dry” tank. Winding breakage is a rarer cause. The unit is not highly reliable, so refueling with "left" gasoline with rags of dirt can turn into an economy on the contrary.

The clutch of the car does not cause special complaints. On the Rostov Nexia, the drive cable breaks down at about the same time as on the VAZ-2108. The Uzbek machine, equipped with a hydraulic drive, of course, does not have this drawback.

A special talk about air conditioning. We strongly recommend that you run it for at least five minutes every month (in a warm garage). Otherwise, in the summer you risk being left without the promised coolness. The air conditioning belt, contrary to popular belief, is not regulated, and if it "sings", there is only one way out - to change.

On a car equipped with air conditioning, both fans (engine and air conditioner) are switched on through one fuse, and when either of them fails (much more often, the air conditioning fan), the fuse also blows as a rule. And there, the engine does not “boil” for long. It is not difficult to eliminate this design flaw: it is enough to insert a fuse of 10 A. into the wire that goes to the fan of the air conditioner. These are used on the VAZ-2107, VAZ-2108 with headlight cleaners, and ready-made housings for them can be purchased in stores.

The vehicle’s electrical equipment generally works reliably, but after washing under pressure there are failures of the electronic speed sensor located on the gearbox next to the speedometer cable. If the engine malfunction lamp suddenly lights up in your Nexia, and the idle jumped to 1, 500 rpm, then the speed sensor ordered a long life. To protect yourself from this trouble, protect the sensor with a plastic bag.

One of the weakest areas of electrical equipment is the rectifier bridge of the generator. Breakdown of diodes is a common thing. This can happen both in summer and winter, with a large or small electrical load. In a word, at any moment without obvious reasons. In this case, on the panel along with the “no charge” lamp, the “brake failure” indicator lamp may light up. It all depends on which of the diodes and how (breakdown or break) burn out. If you suspect a breakdown of the diode bridge, do not leave the car with the battery connected - in a few hours it will “sit down” so much that it will not be possible to start the engine.

Nexia wheels rumple easily on potholes and pits, but do not try to replace them with very similar “nine” ones. The intercenter distance of the holes of the Nexia disk is 100 mm, and that of the VAZ is 98 mm. Departures of disks differ by 4 mm. It’s hard to catch the difference by eye, and if installed on a machine, then in the best case (and only if the disc is stamped), spoil the thread of the wheel screws. The cast disc cannot be deformed, crushing the thread. Therefore, the wheel will be fully tightened with only one screw! The other three will enter the cone with a bias. The wheel will be fixed with an eccentricity of up to 2 mm, which is almost imperceptible, but will immediately manifest itself as vibration on the go. This breaks the hub, and the wheel can be lost.

In conclusion, consider the “Octane Corrector” for “Nexia.”

There is no switch for gasoline correction in the controller. But next to the diagnostic connector is another small three-pin connector. A stub is inserted into it - a three-pin “mother”. Depending on how the wires are connected in this plug, the ignition timing changes.

The connector pins are not numbered, but it does not matter. We take the plug in our hands with the wires to ourselves, with the latch up. Let's designate the contacts as follows:

Middle (2) contact - “mass”. Two extreme (1 and 3) contacts can be connected to the middle wire or not. There are four possible switching options.

1. All contacts are connected: switching for the “83rd” gasoline (1 and 3 - to the “mass”)

2. Connected contacts 2 and 3: switching for the “87th” gasoline (3 - to “mass”)

3. No connection: switching for the “91st” gasoline (nothing to the “mass”)

4. Connected contacts 1 and 2: switching for the “95th” gasoline (1 - to “mass”)

Each of the adjustment steps shifts the ignition timing by about half a degree.

Installing a switch in the cabin to control the ignition timing is easy. True, a step-by-step adjustment is obtained: 4 steps with a total range of 2 degrees. But in practice this is quite enough.