As of January 1, 1999, 80, 087 cars were registered in the Bryansk Region, of which 19, 290 in rural areas. 16 584 foreign cars (21% of the total; in Moscow, for example, only 19%). And also on the roads of the region 69 105 motorcycles and scooters run. In 1999 alone, according to the “Chernobyl exemption”, residents of the region purchased 2846 foreign cars, mostly expensive new models. Since April, this benefit has been canceled.


“Jump from here for at least three years - you still can’t get to any state, ” Gogolevsky Gorodnichny lamented. Since then, much water has flowed, and the borders of Russia have moved closer to the capital. So the Bryansk region has now become a frontier, and it is not even known whether in Russia or Belarus there is a village with the exotic name Yamishche. Judging by the map - exactly at the border, but if in life - then there was no such village at all. In any case, we drove along the road several times back and forth, but she was not there.


“Grandmother, do you know where the village of Yamishche went?” On the map there is, between Nikolaevka and Kolyudy, but the second time we go along this road, but it is nowhere to be found!

- And really, sonny, it's been gone for a long time! Two years ago, the last grandmother died in Yamische, after which someone dismantled her house and took it out. There was nothing left of that village. And she stood on the Nikolaev hat on the left hand, on a hill. Once a big village was …

So one could only guess why the village, located on a hill, was once called "Yamische". There is no one to ask. And the road that led to her was of very good quality - the editorial KIA easily wrapped kilometers on asphalt, in some places even dusted with sand from drifts. Having warmed up a little about the disappeared village, we headed further - towards the village with the equally promising name Yamnoe.


The road that led from the district center - Krasnaya Gora - to the village of Yamnoy, also can not be called bad! What is there - in many regional centers of Russia the roads are much worse. And here - even, almost new asphalt, and the streets in the village itself are also asphalted. And - no pits there.

- Why is our village so called? I don’t know … I never even thought about it! - something like this answered three successive Jamaicans in a row. And only the fourth knew the history of her village.

- About two hundred years ago, various non-good-natured people were exiled here who had done something in their villages. And there were continuous holes, ravines and swamps. So they called the village - Yamnoe. And now there are plenty of pits - several roads lead to any other village, and only one to ours. And around - pits and bumps, no way to drive.

Despite the “pit”, 297 people live in the village. “Soon there will be more - we have two women on demolitions, ” the village administration proudly told us. And in recent years several families of immigrants have appeared in the Yamnoye.

“In Alma-Ata, where we used to live, I worked as a department head in the republican hydrometeorological center, and my husband worked in a research institute, ” said Nelly Mikhailovna. - And then I had to leave their homes. We arrived here in the Bryansk region. Of course, here is a completely different life. But we are not complaining. And most importantly - the people here are very good. We were kindly received, the collective farm of the half-house allocated … And your husband has been writing out your magazine for twenty years in a row. Now, however, there is not enough money. But as soon as we get to our feet, I will definitely write him again!

We presented Nelly Mikhailovna with her fresh number ZR for her husband and went to the border of Russia and Belarus, to the village with the formidable name Bears.


And again, a good asphalt road led from Red Mountain! Only in one place did it suddenly take and … it ended, although in the fresh Atlas of highways it was listed as "a paved automobile road." The local grandfather suggested that we go along the "field" - directly, according to him, to the Bears through the fields "there will be six kilometers, no more." But we decided not to risk it and went along another road, asphalt, through Zaborye. So, if anyone decides to get to the Bears through Lotaki, you should know that there is no way there!

In general, we arrived in the village. At the entrance, a freshly dug trench blocked the road - it turns out that gasification came to the Bears. We were met by the head of the village administration Valery Snytko.

- If we get what kind of money more or less regularly, it’s 199 rubles of “grave money”. Our region belongs to the “Chernobyl zone”. Therefore, by the way, our roads are so good - until 1986 there were none at all. And how the reactor exploded - so they built it right away, literally in a year. And now they are being watched, repaired.

Now in the Bears 830 people live permanently, the village hospital, the House of Culture, a school, a shop are working. If anyone left, then right after the Chernobyl accident, and now some even come back.

“For eight hundred inhabitants, we have more than fifty cars.” Do we live badly? - Snytko considers.

True, these cars are mostly elderly "Lada" and "Muscovites"; there are several “Opel” and “Volkswagen” (after all, abroad begins two kilometers from the village), but also not too young. There are among the inhabitants of the village of Medvedy and a couple of owners of cool "jeeps" …

- Some peasants came to us here, persuaded to issue expensive foreign cars. On you, they say, as the "Chernobyl", the benefits laid. They promised to pay big money. Nobody ever saw big money, but there was a lot of hassle - lugging the ships, and it’s scary to get in touch with such expensive cars … In a word, we don’t know where those foreign cars run around. In your capital, probably.

The main “bear” Valera volunteered to lead us to the border. There are no border posts or wires, but the line where Russian land ends and Belarusian land begins is very accurately indicated. Here, a good asphalt road abruptly breaks off and something begins, let’s say so - a direction among pits, puddles and potholes. After a couple of kilometers there is a foreign village of Viduytsy. Once upon a time, children went to the Bear School from here, and now at the entrance there is a barrier and a trailer of Belarusian customs. Since the summer of 1999, everyone who enters the territory of the Republic of Belarus by car has to pay an insurance policy. It costs 5 dollars and is valid for two weeks. During the day, we were the only ones who arrived at the Belarusian customs post. So the Belarusian budget wasn’t very rich that day.

- And what to do in Belarus? - Snytko is surprised. - Previously, their products were cheaper, they still traveled. And now - more expensive than ours. The only thing that our people buy in Belarus is vodka. She costs 18 rubles on Russian money there, and 32 in our store! And so as not to pay money to Belarusians, men ride horses to their store. There is no insurance on the horse! Yes, and you can safely drink with relatives - everyone now has relatives in their own country. And then it was loaded with vodka - and through the field, past the post, home. According to the Belarusian law, more than four bottles cannot be taken out. But horses aren’t needed any roads!

- And how will they drink - then men will not play pranks? The village is called Bears …

- No, our people are calm. And as for the name of our village, one healthy man, nicknamed the Bear, founded it according to the legend two hundred and more years ago. And his sons were strong. So that’s the name of the village. And that sounds beautiful …

Until April 1986, there was the richest village in the area - Zaborye.

On the border of Russia and Belarus.