The characteristic disadvantages of the “tenth” heating system can be handled independently.


Riddle: what car doesn’t warm the interior in winter, but does it play in the whole of Ivanovo in summer? Guessed, of course, the VAZ 2110. The owners were convinced that the heating and ventilation system “ten” is far from perfect. The magazine has already talked about the features of its device (ЗР, 1997, No. 10), its shortcomings (2000, No. 2), and the elimination of characteristic malfunctions (1998, No. 8; 1999, No. 12). The time has come to unveil ways to deal with birth defects, that is, to modernize the heating system.


Many are not satisfied with the forced inclusion of an increased heater fan speed when the interior is warming up. This function is controlled by an electronic controller. It automatically sets the average fan speed at a low coolant temperature, which slows down the heating of the engine and, as a result, the interior. There are two ways to change the controller operation algorithm.

Option 1. We take out the heater control unit from the dashboard console and disassemble it. The method depends on the modification of the controller. However, in any case, it is necessary to remove the knobs of the temperature controller and the fan mode switch, the scale with symbols, the diffuser of the backlight and unscrew the screws securing the casing (or bend the tabs if the casing is aluminum). Next, remove the printed circuit board with soldered elements, turn it with the radio parts down and find the relay leads in the region of the fan speed switch. It remains to cut something sharp with the track leading to the contact of the relay coil, as shown in photo 1. Alteration is complete, you can collect. The fan speed is now regulated in the same way as on VAZ 2108, 2109. The toggle switch in position “A” - low speed, “1” - medium, “2” - high.

Strictly speaking, this alteration cannot be called modernization, because it reduces the degree of automation of the unit. But if you solder two wires of a suitable length to a torn track and attach them to a two-position switch, then you can restore an open circuit if you wish, that is, return to the normal mode of operation of the controller.

Option 2. It differs from the previous one in that it does not require intervention in the circuit of the controller itself, which is important for “warranty” cars. We take out the control unit from the console, after it we pull out the wiring harnesses. Disconnect the six-terminal block from the controller connector and carefully remove the gray wire from it (plug No. 5). Do not use force, use a thin screwdriver or an awl to squeeze the retaining tab on the terminal and slightly pull on the wire. After that, in the same way we remove the red conductor from the block (plug No. 1), and install gray in its place. Red should be properly insulated. All, connect the block to the controller connector and return the control unit back to the console. Now, when the control handle is in position “A”, the fan will rotate only at a low frequency, “1” will turn on automatically when the cabin temperature drops below the set temperature, “2” will work at medium speed. If you want to keep the maximum fan speed in position “2”, then you do not need to pull out the red wire from the block, but you need to insulate the gray one.


The most time-consuming modernization is the alteration of the exhaust ventilation system. It is clear that the air supplied to the cabin should come out of it. On cars of the "tenth" family, the hood is organized through openings in the ends of the doors. Such a scheme has several disadvantages caused by the unfavorable distribution of air flows. In practice, this leads to inadequate ventilation in the warm season, and in winter the windows are frost-bitten, the rear passengers will feel cold. The hood hood, widely used in foreign-made sedans, is recognized as more effective.

Altering the ventilation of the VAZ 2110 to extract through the trunk will require some time and effort, although it is not so complicated. First you need to remove all four ventilation grills with valves located at the ends of the doors. To do this, simply unscrew the screws and remove the grilles - you do not need to disassemble the doors. The remaining holes should be tightly closed. There are many options - from self-adhesive film to plastic or metal caps (photo 2).

Next, open the path to the air in the trunk - remove the rear shelf and along its far edge (along the rubber seal) we drill a series of holes with a diameter of 10-15 mm in increments of 20-30 mm (photo 3). Since the holes made are almost invisible, you can do without a frame - just remove the excess pile from the edges. If you agree to tinker for the sake of external gloss, another way will do. Get plastic oval plugs - such as those at the rear of the eights and nines ceiling upholstery. In the shelf of your “dozens”, make a corresponding slot shape for them. Now the "corporate" look is provided.

The next operation is the installation of door grilles in the trunk. Remove two bolts from above, two nuts from below, and remove the rear bumper. Mark and cut holes in the body for the grilles (they are installed in pairs vertically). It’s more convenient to start on the left side. The slot is located close to the sleeve of the license plate light wire to the left of it (photo 4). The lower edge should go along the level of the punch, at a height of about 20 mm from the upper edge of the rear wall amplifier. The second hole on the right is also marked. Do not forget to treat the edges of the windows cut into the body with an anticorrosive agent and install the grilles in them (photo 5). Opposite the flaps in the boot carpet, make slots. It remains to put the rear shelf and the bumper back in place - the alteration is completed. Good advice: try not to block the luggage ventilation holes both in the shelf and in the trunk, so as not to obstruct the air flow.


It happens that in hot weather your favorite car, instead of delivering relatively cool air outside, only adds heat to the cabin. This surprise of summer operation is associated with the lack of a crane in the "tenth" heating system. Since the plastic damper covering the air duct is often not tight enough, the “stove” regularly raises the temperature inside the machine. To get rid of the drawback, you must either install a factory-made or self-made aluminum damper, or go the less laborious way - embed an additional tap into the cooling system. Plastic from the "stove" of the "Eight" will do. It crashes into the straight pipe of the heater radiator (photo 6). Overlapping it for the summer, you can significantly lower the temperature in the cabin.