Anonim

CLUB OF CAR FANS

"Teapot" for edification

YOU "LETTER" …

This is how a professional driver “picks up” a colleague, having noticed a flat tire on his car.

Victor SLESAREV

No one is safe from this disaster …

As soon as you drive, you, my young friend, run the risk of "catching a nail" in much the same way as your experienced grandfather - after all, there are enough objects that can pierce a tire on our roads. True, a cautious and attentive driver still suffers less often: when he sees fragments of wooden containers, a scattering of bottle fragments, other “promising” materials on the road, he will go round them. And those who are too lazy to turn the steering wheel will pay.

Nevertheless, even the modern "Sharp Falcon" does not make out a nail on the road from a distance of 100 meters. And now - a typical situation called "on three wheels." Why on three? And because recently one has already been pierced, and it was replaced by a spare. The pierced was thrown into the trunk and forgotten.

In short, my friend, being on three wheels, you have to act yourself …

But let's start … from the beginning! At full speed, in the stream of cars, you realized: the wheel is punctured. If this is the front, it is noticeable by the increase in effort on the steering wheel: the lower the air pressure in the tire, the stronger the car pulls to the side. The back is harder. Many people realize its puncture only after they hear the characteristic dull thump of a completely flat tire. Often later it turns out that its sidewalls are “chewed up”, and the road to it is to the dump.

… So you want to stop? But it doesn’t work out instantly, therefore, reducing the speed, try to carefully stand where it is safe enough. Do not take an example from those who, due to any nonsense, are ready to raise the hood right in the center of the traffic stream and, putting a sign, considers themselves insured against all accidents!

By the way, if you stopped the car in a prohibited place, and it could actually move, then from the point of view of the traffic police this is a gross violation. Please note: a car with a punctured wheel is not immobilized! Even on a flat tire, you can drive off to a safe place. Perhaps the tire will be further damaged, but in any case it is cheaper than the body, broken in the event of an accident (I will not mention the price of human life).

… Of course, a novice driver is in awe of any, even the smallest, problem. And here - horror! - punctured wheel. Do not worry, act thoughtfully. Do not rush to put the jack under the car. A second or two will not change anything, but you’ve looked closely at the road: what will the jack bump into, will it crawl to the side on the ice, will the hot asphalt fall into loose soil? Will the car roll downhill? The worst option is to drop the car from the jack, when, having unscrewed the bolts, remove the wheel, you can become a cripple here.

You can work much more calmly by placing stops under the wheels of the opposite side. Well, at least half the brick. (In general, a car enthusiast “with a concept” carries real emphasis in the trunk, lovingly made with his own hands or bought. It's better than bricks …)

Removed the wheel? Now the most exciting thing will begin, which allows us to recall our foreman: “This is not an institute for you! You have to think here! ”

First of all, what wheels do you drive - chamber, tubeless? In the latter case, if you, my thrifty one, are hid in the trunk a kit for repairing them without disassembling, then you will get out of this situation simply gracefully. If only the puncture diameter was not very large (maximum 5-6 mm). Then, using special devices, glue and a “gag” (harness made of special rubber), you can quickly fix the puncture.

If you cannot boast of such a kit, you will have to dismantle the tire, at least partially, from the side of the outer side (dismantle, disassemble - some say so) and plug the puncture from the inside with a special rubber fungus on the glue. And if you want, make a chamber from a tubeless wheel, provided that a spare chamber is at hand. Naturally, the valve pressed into the hole in the rim will have to be sacrificed. What to prefer? Naturally, the first two options: a tubeless tire is safer than a chamber one - it loses air more slowly, especially if an object piercing it is stuck in a hole.

It happens that there’s such a hole in the tire that they don’t even remember about “tubelessness” - “not fat” … But just like that, without thinking, you can’t put the camera in: sand will immediately fill the hole, and without it the edges “squeeze” the camera and you’re unlikely to go far. One thing remains: to block the hole from the inside with a "footcloth" - for example, several sheets of rubber from an unusable camera. A piece of the rim tape from the truck is also suitable, its two edges are already nullified, the rest needs to be done yourself so that the corners do not "chew" the camera. And you can even get to the tire fitting. As for balancing, my friend, don’t worry: they don’t drive fast on such wheels …

But how to tire a tire? Here, although force is needed, you need to use it with your head! Acting ineptly, strong guys and the assembly were bent in half. Result? The mutilated edges of the rim, and even the torn side of the tire. (At the same time, you can get injured, but that's another topic …)

So, the first crucial operation. How to separate (tear) the tire side from the rim, if they seemed to have fused together over a year of contact? Yes, and tubeless wheel humps interfere with this process …

Of course, special devices for various operations with tires can be bought. But according to the law of meanness, exactly when they are desperately needed, it turns out: they remained in the garage. And you are a hundred kilometers from him on three wheels. Therefore, we are considering “field” working conditions.

A popular method in Russia was invented by professional drivers: resting a piece of a corner, a spring, etc. (who is used to it) on board, they scrupulously beat it with a sledgehammer, eventually achieving a result. The matter is not simple: the rubber springs, the corner bounces … In a word, if you do not rely on a firm hand and a faithful eye, it is better to beware! .. You can be injured. It is easy to damage the sidewall of the tire (especially radial). And blows to the disk are not good, first of all, tubeless.

We prefer those methods in which a static, easily controlled force acts. If you have a jack-rack, as on the Zhiguli, then it is easy to convert it into a “press” (Fig. 1). The loop 3 of a strong rope or steel cable connecting the wheel disc and the jack lifting bracket should “hold” a force of several hundred kilograms. By the way, in order to separate the opposite side from the rim, the loop must be longer … or you will have to change the position of the jack bracket. Practice has shown: it is best to carry a loop resembling an eight in the trunk with an additional knot in the middle (fitting in place).

The greater the force, the stronger the jack falls to the center of the wheel (in the figure to the left). It is by holding it that you shift the side of the tire. A strong little need! Therefore, if you want to facilitate your work, do as in Fig. 2, spacer 1 from a suitable pipe. You put one end on the rod 2 of the jack, and the other you reproach in the rim of the rim. We are so - light, duralumin - spied on one seasoned …

You can build on the basis of this jack and "machine" (Fig. 3). The loop is no longer needed, it is replaced by hook 2. It also has two hooks - for working from different sides of the wheel.

A folding jack (Fig. 4) is used as follows. One of the stops is the sill of the car. If it is not high enough, you will first have to lift the car, put it on reliable stands … But there is another solution: to use the machine itself as a “press” - as in fig. 5. In order for the force to be greater, in half its weight, the wheel must be put under the middle of the nut, near the middle rack.

If it happens in the country, where there is a strong board, use it, as shown in Fig. 6, or make a "machine" (Fig. 7).

Some are trying to separate the bead from the rim by simply running into a "healthy" wheel. This does not always work out - you need a heavy car. In addition, you can bend the disc "eight". It is better to free both sides of the rim - why, now you will understand.

The next operation is the actual folding (Fig. 8). Now the tire bead (on side A) needs to be hooked up by fittings (first one, then the other), and this is easiest to do if you push the bead of the tire on the other side (B) deep into the "creek" of the rim. It was for this that they came up with it. Moreover, it is usually biased towards the outside of the rim. This allows you to not too much strain the outer side, pulling it over the edge of the rim. (If you pull the inner one, then you have to press harder.)

Soap solution helps a lot, especially if the tire is relatively fresh. (By the way, carrying a piece of soap in a car is always useful. Having done the work, you won’t get behind the wheel with dirty hands! ..) Some craftsmen use gasoline instead. Naturally, clean, without traces of oil - such a tire does not spoil.

And now, attention! If you work with a chamber wheel, then, wielding montages, never forget about the camera. A common mistake here is pinching the camera (it is flat!) Between the mounting and the rim. Carelessly click - and two good holes are guaranteed! They do another stupid thing: forgetting to check the condition of the tire from the inside (and “the same nail” or something else may stick out there), they freshly lay a fresh camera!